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Interior Designer in Dwarka, Noida, Delhi, Vasant Kunj & Indirapuram

Interior Designer in Dwarka New Delhi, Interior Designer in Noida

Stainless steel railing in Geeta Colony 9891050117

October 2, 2013

Stainless steel railings may use for stairs, balconies, lofts or other areas of homes in Geeta Colony. Stainless steel railings can be constructed from a number of materials, one option being stainless steel, which is often chosen because of its modern appearance and easy-to-clean surface. Stainless steel railings are strong, last a lifetime and will resist rust, fire and heat. After fabricating the custom-made railings to size, they must be installed securely to surrounding wall and floor structures to ensure safety and stability. 

There are a variety of stair railings to consider when installing one in your home in Geeta Colony. Safety is always the utmost concern when attaching a stair railing in your home in Geeta Colony, but decoration is important, too. Assess your budget and your carpentry skills, and decide whether you want to attach your own railing or hire a contractor to do so. Then consider the many options you have.

Stairs are a common element in modern homes, and they can be constructed out of a variety of materials but stainless steel is the best to use for stairs in home. People often take stairs for granted, or view them as simply a functional element in the home in Geeta Colony. However, a well-designed staircase with decorative railings can add to the beauty of your home in Geeta Colony, making it a focal point and reflecting your personal style. Whether part of a whole house renovation or done alone, designing your own stair railings can add a customized touch to your home in Geeta Colony.

Staircase railings are designed to serve a practical purpose by making a trip up the stairs safer in Geeta Colony. In addition to its functionality, the stainless steel railing can also add a great deal to the look of a staircase. Fortunately, there are a variety of options to choose from, so you can find a stainless steel railing that fits your home's architecture and decoration while making your staircase more secure.

A stainless steel staircase railing is an alternative to glass that still provides a modern look in Geeta Colony. While they may be more common in commercial settings, stainless steel railings can add contemporary flair to any home in Geeta Colony while providing a durable railing at the same time. They're available in a range of finishes and designs so you can customize their look to match your home's decoration in Geeta Colony. While stainless steel may be painted, railings are treated with an anti-rust coating, so you can leave the natural finish for a more industrial look. You can also opt for a stainless steel railing with a matte finish and combine it with wood or glass to provide an interesting contrast in textures.

Installing a railing alongside a stairwell can help make going up and down the stairs much safer in any home in Geeta Colony. It is important to attach a railing if there are elderly people who use the stairwell and who might need the railing for support and balance. However, people of all ages should get in the habit of using a handrail since it can help prevent slip-and-fall accidents.

Stair railings are an important part of every home in Geeta Colony with stairs. Hand railings can protect your family and guests from slips and falls. The rails are especially important if you have elderly or disabled individuals living in your home. Making a railing is not difficult, but the process will take a few hours. Railing for stairs can be purchased at most home-improvement centers in a variety of finishes and colors

Stair railings are a necessary element for safe use of any staircase. Railings provide support to anyone using the stairs and prevent harmful falls. Stair railings can also serve as a decorative element for your staircase and enhance the overall look of your home in Geeta Colony. If you have an existing staircase without a railing or if you are in the process of building a new staircase, take the time to add this necessary and worthwhile feature.

Designing the right railings for the stairs in your home in Geeta Colony is important for interior design aesthetics as well as safety when using the stairs. Most stair railings match the color, material and style of the stairs, but some go a little more outside the box and still work. There are a variety of hand rails that can be installed, depending upon what kind of stairs they will be attached to.

Hold the railing in its desired position on the floor. Avoid installing the railing too close to the edge of elevated floor surfaces. Generally, its best install the railing at least two inches from the edge of the surface.

Clean the surface of the railing with a commercial stainless steel cleaner to remove fingerprints, dirt and grease.

Long railings will require that you enlist the help of an assistant to stabilize one end of the railing while you work on the other end.

Stainless steel may have a highly-polished or brushed finish. Avoid scratching the surface with tools or against floor surfaces while installing.

There are many options of stair railing designs; the more common are made of wood, wrought iron or stainless steel in any home in Geeta Colony. There are more unique designs, such as glass railing. The actual rail you grasp is wooden, but in place of balusters are large curved or straight pieces of shatter-proof glass. These allow people to see the floors above and below.                                                         

Unique matching of balusters and railings often makes the most attractive design. An oak railing and stairway flanked by detailed wrought-iron balusters is a stunning contrast that is stylish and functional.

Contemporary homes often have stainless balusters with sleek wooden railings painted black or white. The clean, crisp look to these railings blend perfectly with minimalist modern decoration in Geeta Colony.

Any stair railing made of solid wood will add to the value of the home, as the opportunity to paint or stain it allows for significant versatility.

Choose a style for your railings in your home in Geeta Colony, and make sure that it is consistent with the rest of your home in Geeta Colony. A modern-style home would look odd with colonial-style wooden railings, but glass or steel would be a good choice.

Decide on materials. Railings often come in metal, wood or glass, or a combination of these materials. Keep your budget in mind when you make your choice, as some are more expensive than others.

Have handrails of two heights installed in order to accommodate smaller children as well as taller and aging adults -- or those in a wheelchair -- who are navigating the same set of stairs or hallway. Put handrails in more places than just along your stairs or entrance and exit. For example, add a handrail to your hallways and bathrooms, as these will come in handy if someone who isn't elderly in your home suddenly faces immobility issues himself.

Use simple railings of strong material to prevent toddlers or other small children from going into areas where they could get hurt. Opt for railings that are simplistic in design, as you don't want a child hurt by the railing's ornamentation or a sharp edge on it. Home railings that separate upper-level landings from stairs or floor levels below especially need to be made of sturdy material. Be sure the rail sections are spaced very close together -- about 2 3/8 inches apart -- as gates and enclosures that are farther apart may not prevent a child from putting her head or other body parts in between the slats and getting stuck.          

Decide how high you want the railing to be located. Most hand rails are about 36-inches high. Locate this height at each of the marked lines and mark it with a pencil.

Create a chalk line that runs from the 36 inch mark at the top of the stairs to the 36 inch mark at the bottom of the stairs. The chalk line will act as a guide during the installation.

Set the first staircase railing post onto the second step from the bottom of the staircase. Center the post on the edge of the step where you wish the stainless steel railing to stand. The post should stand at least 1 inch from the edge of the step tread to ensure there is enough support to hold it in place. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the post onto the step tread.

Standard railing requirements for stairways consists of posts, top and intermediate rails. Measurement requirements specify a vertical height of 42 inches from the ramp, runway, platform or floor to the upper surface of the top rail. Vertical height of stair railing measurements equal not more than 34 inches or less than 30 inches from the top rail surface to the forward edge of the tread surface in line with the riser face. Check to be sure the entire length of the top rail is smooth with no projections. Position the intermediate rail approximately halfway between the top rail and the bottom surface. Allow for overhangs of railings only when a projection hazard is not discernible. If constructed of wood, use at least 2 by 4-inch stock for the top and intermediate rails in addition to the posts.

 

Standard stair railings are required on a flight of stairs possessing four or more risers. On stairways that are enclosed on both sides and measure less than 44 inches wide, at least one handrail is required. For open stairways measuring less than 44 inches, handrails are required on both sides. Stairways wider than 44 inches but less than 88 inches require handrails on both sides. Stairways measuring 88 inches wide require handrails on both sides, in addition to an intermediate handrail placed approximately in the middle of the staircase. The interior handrail of a winding staircase extends in from the center of the spiral to a point where the stair treads below it are at least 6 inches wide. This prevents people from walking on the portion of the tread that is narrower than 6 inches.

                    

Placement of pipe railings on stairways is no different than placement of their wood counterparts. Required measurements for pipe railings consist of 1 and 1/2 inches in diameter for the top and intermediate rails. Structural steel railings on stairways, in regard to the top and intermediate rails, in addition to the posts, measures 2 inches by 2 inches by 3/8 of an inch angles. Use materials and construction techniques that produce a railing capable of supporting 200 pounds of weight applied in any direction on the top rail.


Add a bit of contemporary flair with a modern stair design. Contemporary stairs incorporate unexpected building materials into minimalist stair designs for dramatic effects. Many contemporary designs include an open stair structure in which the stairs seem to float without an enclosure. Consider simple block stairs without edge lips or details in your contemporary design. Instead of iron supports or balusters, opt for stainless steel as an accent metal. For a truly modern touch, replace rails and baluster poles with taut cables instead. The ultimate in minimalist contemporary design is floating stairs. Floating stairs attach directly to the supporting wall and seem to float without a supporting structure.                                        

Spiral staircases are ideal for spaces with limited square footage. The vertical design efficiently utilizes available space by reducing the size of its foundation and footprint. In all spiral staircases, a series of small step platforms attach to a central support pole and spiral upward to create stairs. Spiral staircases can be adapted to a variety of tastes and styles. For an elegant spiral staircase, select wooden platforms in a dark cherry stain around a textured wrought iron support pole. Choose wrought iron balusters and a polished wood handrail. Flourishes in both the balusters and handrail add ornate detailing for a sophisticated staircase. If your style is slightly more modern, try a brushed steel support pole lined with a spiral of birch, oak or maple platforms in a clear or very light stain. A simple matching handrail supported by widely spaced brushed steel balusters keeps the design clean and minimalist.

 The building of custom steel stairs requires precise calculations to ensure that their geometry is structurally sound, and joins floors safely and decoratively. The specialized tools for cutting, shaping and joining metal parts are usually not found in the average homeowner’s toolbox. Only professionals should attempt construction. They are three types of professionals suited for this type of project. The most expensive are custom metalworkers who create unique constructions. Fabricated-steel manufacturers can produce standard designs quickly. And, finally, component manufacturers of railings and balusters can supply parts that installers can assemble into semi-custom designs.

One type of steel staircase that is within the capabilities of handy homeowners, and is also relatively inexpensive, is the prefabricated spiral. Because parts come in kit form and require only screws, bolts and fasteners for assembly, no special tools or calculations are needed. Buyers must supply the exact space measurements to their suppliers; these calculations usually only requires basic math and geometry. Those who are uncertain about their measurement skills can hire contractors to do the preliminary calculations, make the initial floor cuts and place the kit order. The homeowner can then take over.

 

Whether steel stairs are custom-built or pre-assembled, they must follow local and state building regulations to be approved for occupant use. These codes are all based on the International Residential Code maintained by the International Code Council. Standard incline steel stairs must be at least 36 inches wide. If they have more than three risers, they need a handrail on at least one side. The handrail must not project more than 4.5 inches into either side of the stairway. Stair steps must be at least 10 inches deep, and the risers, or vertical surfaces between steps, must be no more than 7.75 inches high. All measurements must be uniform across the entire flight of steps, with a variance of under 0.375 inches.

The clear width for spiral steel stairs above and below the handrail must be at least 26 inches. The minimum headroom is 78 inches. The minimum tread depth is 7.5 inches, as measured 1 foot from the narrowest edge. Risers must be less than 9.5 inches high. Unless otherwise specified, spiral stairs must follow all the codes for standard incline stairs.

Steel staircase steps consist of two parts, the tread and the riser. The tread is the flat part of the step where you place your feet as you walk up the stairs. The riser is the front of the step that meets the tread at a 90-degree angle. The tread and riser can be welded together to form a single unit or they can be separate units that are attached together with bolts. The front of the tread is often rounded for safety with an attachment called the nosing. Nosing, especially for steel staircases, is often made of a material that increases traction and helps prevent slipping.

A number of a number of different components make up the side of the staircase to support the steps. Stringers, also called the carriage, are step supports. One stringer is placed on either side of the steps to position the steps at an incline leading upward. Stringers are cut into step-like patterns to fit snugly on either side of the steps.                  

Rails make it safer to use a steel staircase. Handrails follow the same angle as the stringers and are about waist-high to make climbing the steps easier. The handrails are attached to or through the treads by the vertical pole-like units called balusters. The row of balusters along the side of the steps is called the balustrade. The large pole on either side of the beginning or end of the staircase is called the newel post. It is often wider and heavier than the balusters.

 

Take into consideration the height between the finished floors, or platforms, that the stairs will connect because this will help determine the number of treads and risers you will need, as well as impact the degree of the curve.

Determine the amount of space you have in the room so you can calculate the diameter of the staircase. If you are adding a curved staircase to a large foyer, you may have enough space for the stairs to form a wide curve. In smaller spaces, however, you will use a staircase that forms a tighter curve. The length of the treads you use can also affect the diameter of a curved staircase.

Choose the type of curve you want for the steel staircase. Different types of staircases include those whose treads wrap or radiate around a central support pole. A curved staircase can be freestanding, curve downward and have an open stringer-like appearance. A staircase with an elliptical configuration does not have the sharper curves of a spiral staircase. Instead, the staircase looks more like a coil on a sprint that is stretched.

Design the treads, which on a curved steel staircase can be smooth or have grit paint for extra traction. On this type of staircase, the treads are generally angled on one end and resemble a wedge shape. If you prefer to use treads that are more decorative than solid steel, you can order them with cutout filigree patterns. If you choose to use wooden treads, you can continue the steel look by using angled tread frames made from steel. When designing the treads, use a size long enough to help ensure the safety of those climbing the stairs. Stair treads that are too narrow can make it difficult for you to get a good footing as you climb the steps.

Consider your needs. If you live in a studio or small loft a staircase that doubles as a shelf or dresser may be ideal. On the other hand, if you want a decorative design that is not the only option for reaching the next floor, a spiral stair case may work. These stairs are also ideal in odd shaped homes like those built in grain silos, but they are not permitted in all areas or may have specific requirements. So, check your local building codes. Steel also works well for purely functional pieces in heavy traffic areas like offices or malls but they should be well-textured or people may slip.

Measure your space. In particular, measure the hole opening to the next level, the distance from the floor to the ceiling and the amount of available space around the stairs. Some stairs take up a great deal of space so you need to make sure people can get around them. Also keep in mind how the stairs will be set up. Floating stairs are bolted into the walls and do not take up much space but some artistic stairs are held in place by a complicated array of metal wires, which look attractive but make the surrounding space unusable.

Collect images of inspiring stairs. Do not just stick with steel steps, look at wooden or industrial strength glass ones as well since a talented welder can create a "carved" effect with metal. You should also look at general design images or other things that interest you. For example, an image of waves may inspire you to create a uniquely curved stair, as if waves are carrying you upward to the next floor.

Measure and write down the distance that is most comfortable for you to step up or down. This can vary depending on your age, height or even weight. A simple way to do it is to keep a measuring tape on you and measure steps that feel comfortable to you as you go on with your day. You may also want to measure steps that feel uncomfortable to you and write down their measurements as well in case your exact measurements are not doable. This way you can tell exactly how much space you can give before becoming uncomfortable. You should also measure the depth of steps. Even on spiral staircases the depth of each step should be enough for your entire foot and an extra inch or two in case you slip to give yourself space to catch yourself.

Create textural elements such as bumps, ridges or slots along the edge of each step. Steel can be slippery, particularly when wet. Use the effects to slow down movement and reduce the likelihood of slipping.

Draw an image of a staircase incorporating all of these aspects. Have a drafts person, engineer or architect examine it to make sure it can be created in steel and still be safe for use.


Adding an iron or steel gate to a driveway or entry can add value and prestige to nearly any house. Ranging from modern, angled styles to fanciful designs, gates can be made to fit any mood or decoration. While ornate and dramatic designs are usually the work of skilled artisans using special tools, an attractive and functional gate can be made by a novice for a very small cost and using only a few basic tools.

Determine the general height and width dimensions the gate needs to be. Remember to allow clearance below the gate for it to swing freely, typically six inches.

Cut the square tubing to the total height of the gate. Cut four lengths for the two outside edges of each gate.

Cut square tubing for the top and bottom sections of the steel gate. You should now have the material to make two rectangles that will be the outside shell of the gate.

Clamp the edges of the square tubing. After each corner is clamped, take diagonal measurements from each corner and adjust until the measurements are equal. This ensures a square frame.

Measure the inside dimension of the frame. Cut the square bar to this length making sure to cut enough bars so that there is one bar every six inches or so across the grate.

 

Place the bars inside the frame beginning with the center, and placing one in the middle of each remaining section. This process will ensure an equal separation between the bars.

Weld the bars to the top and bottom rail. Once every bar is welded, clean up the welds using a disc grinder until the surface is smooth.

Wrap wire around the top of the bar connecting it to the top rail. This creates a decorative element and adds more rigidity to the gate.

Finish the steel to your liking; flat black paint is the most common finish. Once finished the gate is ready to be installed.

Steel window bars can help protect you, your family and your home from intruders. Building and installing steel window bars on the inside of your windows will allow you to remove the steel bars in the event of an emergency. Steel window bars contain two components, steel bars and mounting frame.

Measure each window that will be fitted with steel window bars. Mark down the width and height of each window.

Cut two pieces of 1/2-inch by 2-inch flat bar for each window. Measure in one inch from each end and make a mark with the marker. Lay out the remaining rods, holding a maximum of three inches between the steel rod centers. For example: A 32-inch window will have 30 inches between the 1 inch marks. Thirty inches divided by 3-inch centers equals 10 steel rods between the 1-inch markers. In this example, 12 steel rods are required for the window.

Mark the center of the flat bar at each rod centerline by setting the combination square at 1 inch, placing the awl at the end of the square and sliding the square along the flat bar. Lay out the mounting screw locations. Mark the mounting hole locations 2-1/2 inches from both ends and one hole on the flat bar's center.

Drill a 9/16-inch hole at each steel rod location and a 1/4-inch hole at each mounting location. Cut the steel rods 1/2 inch shorter than the window opening's height.

Fit the steel rods into the flat bar mounting frame pieces, keeping the end of the rod 3/16 inch from the outside face of the flat bar. Tack weld each rod to the flat bar to hold the rods in place. Plug weld the rods after the frame is squared and the correct dimension has been verified.

                   

Slide the steel window bars into the window opening. Secure one corner of the window bar assembly 1/2 inch to 1-1/2 inches from the window pane with a 3-inch wood screw. Set the unsecured end at the same distance from the window pane as the secured corner. Run a 3-inch wood screw in each mounting whole location to complete the installation. 

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